Because it’s gonna be a robot! Every year I try and make one BIG cosplay build. 2014 was Rocket Raccoon, 2015/16 was Ratchet and Clank (though I actually 3-d printed a new Clank this past summer). 2017 is the year of my best boi, K1-b0 (or Kiibo, or Keebo... don’t ask) from Danganronpa v3.
I’ll update this build log regularly, as I’ve already had at least 30 people message/email/yell at me for instructions on how to make their own. Below I’ll list what’s in the current version:
PLEASE KEEP IN MIND THE SPECIFIC VERSION I’M BUILDING IS HYPER SPOILERY. LIKE ENDGAME SPOILERY. If you haven’t reached the final chapter of v3 and don’t want spoilers, I highly suggest you turn back as there be dragons here.
THAT BEING SAID, if you’re just building regular old Keebs, most of the stuff I’m showing still applies. There’s just a few changes or additions to do this specific version of
Miu’s Playground K1-b0 that aren’t going to apply to your version.
Last chance to back out now.
OK, here goes.
For most of you, the top version is the version of K10b0 you’re planning on building. Bodysuit (though of the heavy powersuit variety, not the skintight Spidey suit type), gloves, boots, collar, wig, and probably face makeup/contacts.
I can’t wear contacts, due to my eye disease, and his piercing blue eyes (which can have emotes on them, like an actual >-< face when he’s confused) are so plot important that I wanted to be able to mimic them. That, and I suck at wigs.
So, I decided to go full bonanza electronics on this guy. He’s an artificial AI android after all. And if you’ve stayed this far, you know exactly which variant I’m working on- his death-robot form from Chapter 6. It looks mostly the same with three key differences.
His arm is replaced with an arm cannon, he’s got a jetpack, and despite what this reference image shows, his antennae hair is gone (as he’s no longer being controlled by the audience). Other than that, he’s the same. I’ve decided to make both the jetpack and arm cannon removable (the jetpack is even canonically just that- a backpack of sorts).
Let’s begin, shall we?
K1-b0's Collar (Animated!)
K1-b0's collar is a bit hard to pin down, as most of the time, the messages displayed on it are denoted with squigglys. I used the only image I could find (from the end of chapter 6 when you play as him VERY briefly) and worked out my collar from there. Yes, it really does cycle through messages, and no, you don’t need any programming or electronics skills. It’s actually a very old animation trick (like late 1800's old).
- x-acto knife
- Stong scissors/box cutter/saw
- Masking Tape
- Heat Gun
- optional- die cutter machine like a Cricut (you can also do this with an xacto and a very steady hand)
SOFTWARE (consumed materials)
- Half a sheet of EVA foam, aka anti-fatigue floor mats
- Kids craft foam (any color, about 5-10 sheets depending on size, 2 MM thick)
- Contact Cement
- 2 strips of green EL Ribbon (plus a third to do the strip of light going down the back, might as well get them all together.) I bought these.
- 1 can of PlastiDip, spray type (black is probably best, but any color would work)
- Dark grey spray paint
- Light grey spray paint
- Clear Coat spray
- Clear piece of acetate, 26 inches long by 2 inches high (check art supply shops, it comes on rolls)
- Black peel and stick vinyl (check scrapbooking, most art stores have a section of this)
The first thing you need to do is cut out your main collar part. I have access to a makerspace so I used a band saw, but, scissors or an xacto will do the trick.
I then marked out the part of the back collar that has the additional ridge in the reference image above (the one without the jetpack on).
FROM HERE ON OUT, I DID THIS WRONG ON PURPOSE. For the sake of showing you proportions, I made the next set of items flat. DO NOT DO THIS. Before you proceed, take a heat gun to your piece (once you’ve made sure its a good size) and carefully heat and bend it into a collar shape. If you try and do this after, everything will be misaligned.
With a straightedge, split the collar horizontally in thirds, and cut out foam to fit. Apply contact cement to both the smaller piece of craft foam and the collar and let it dry, then smack ‘em together. It’s a permanent seal. And no, you don;t need to heat up the craft foam, it’s so thin, it’ll stick in shape, so long as the bigger eva piece was heated to your cylinder shape.
Add in another layer, but cut out a space in the middle, the size of the part you marked.
Make a piece that fits that whole back section.DO NOT GLUE THIS DOWN YET.
Use that middle part you cut out and glue it to the bottom of that piece.
Now glue that back center peiece down, dry contact cement to dry cement, but LEAVE THE TOP SECTION UNGLUED. See below for what I mean.
Glue on the upper thinner collar part with some more craft foam, with a hole cut out for the wires to be threaded through later.
Glue the additional “teeth” on the aides, as well as the lower collar portion.
Spray an even layer of plasti-dip down, then spray on your paint colors (use masking tape if needed). Plastidip first provides a good seal, and an even layer for the paint to stick to. Skip this step, and your paint will crack. I went for more of a “beat up” look, given K1-b0's in battle when he has the jetpack on. Feel free to make it as clean or messy as you want.
Thread the EL tape through the holes, leave enough wire so you can hide the battery packs in a chest pocket or clip to the inside of the costume.Cut the tape, so it stretches around the collar once you’ve lined it all up.Glue it down, but make sure that that loose tab of foam in the back center is ABOVE the tape. You’ll need two strips, one above the other, for the animation effect.
Make an overlay. Carefully etch out the messages you want on the black vinyl, then attach it to the strip of clear acetate like so. I followed the reference as well as I could see,and then added my own errors. like “wifi not found” yes, K1-b0 has a 11307 error on one side (it was a typo of the 11037, but I decided to just keep it)
I etched mine on a Cricut, but a steady hand will also do the trick.
Here’s my base file if you have your own Cricut, just import it with a height of 4 inches and let the machine do the work for you. I attached velcro to the acetate strp, and more to the collar, so I can swap out the strips if I want.
Velcro the strip in place (remember to go under that back tab in the back middle!) and test out the lights.
I made a small square of K1-b0's school logo, cutting the black on my Cricut and gluing it right to the acetate strip. If I made a new overlay, I’ll just make another school badge. it’s like 10 cents worth of foam and vinyl.
So how does the animation work? That’s just a matter of timing the pulse function on the battery packs themselves! Time them right (just keep fiddling with turning them on and off) until you get the flashing you like. Or just leave it at a constant glow!
NEXT: Mask with NeoPixel programmed eyes (dn’t worry, I’ve written the code for you :))